Visit of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne – Jean-Paul Daumen talks about winemaking- Visit of the cellar-2017/9/25
We have a heating system under our tanks to maintain the concrete at the right temperature in order to lower it down as slow as possible at the time of fermentation.
At the beginning of the vinification process we start to air-condition the cellar very freshly to lower down the temperature, during the whole summer we keep it at 18,19°C.
Before to start harvesting we have them dropped at 15°C during one month, concrete temperature dropped at 15°C therefore we start vinications with very cold tanks .
One of the danger faced during the harvest is to have very high temperatures. 2016 was ok but some years we bring back grapes in the cellar with temperatures as 28, 29°C so it is a good thing to put grapes in a colder environment.
Our goal is to not directly intervene on the grapes neither at cold nor hot temperatures. We only intervene on the environment. At the end of the fermentation process we keep a temperature slightly warm to let the temperatures decrease much more slowly. And at first that’s exactly why we keep a cold atmosphere, in order that temperatures rise more reasonably. That’s my way to work rather then doing any intervention directly on the grapes.
We have only 10 barrels the rest are only casks. Barrels are allowing you to play with volume, we use more as a container rather than a maturing tool. It’s really to mature the volums . It’s more for press wine. We have only traditionnal oak barrels , the smaller are 20 hectoliter and the bigger are 57 hectoliter, the wood is around 50 years old. The indication ex15 means that this wine was aged in the tank number 15. A very important thing is that we work until bottling seprately on each vinification tank. I always have in mind which grapes were in the tank it helps me keeping track until the bottle . Cleaning the large casks is a very peculiar experience, you have to enter entirely inside, but you don’t smell alcohol as you can do in a vinification tank. The shape of the cask , the air circulation inside is such that you feel quite confortable, even for someone as me you is not a big fan of confine, small spaces. The atmosphere inside is very soft, enveloping. It’s cleaned with a brush every year. We spray first hot water and let the vapor dilate a bit the wood pores.
Les Trois Sources:
It is a cuvée blending. There are two parts, one is more early . It’s two casks blended during the bottling. 2016 bottling was end of february 2017. After the bottling we wait 4 months before to put them on the market.
For each vintage we keep 300/400 bottles. 2013 and 2014 were two difficult years and it was not easy to keep that number.
What’s important ?
To have a good fruit, a good grape, balance, containing the right quantity of sugar, acidity, natural yeast. It’s one of the rare transformed product which stay stable. The work is first in the vineyard.
Which type of glass would you recommend for your wines ?
Glasses of Saint Gobin. (the same craftman who made the Louvres pyramid).
For tasting we use Riddle glasses.
We have a board to keep updates visually, precisely and quickly of harvest and vinification periods. There is a balance. We need exactitude, we need to quickly decide that it’s this moment and not an other. And at the same time comes into play more senses, creativity, artistique side, experience, some poetry.
Overall you need technique. Some winemakers are real artist they make really aerial wines. I personnaly prefers tellurian wines, rooted. It’s a balance though to find between the two. We are in a perpetual research of balance.
The first contact of the wine with So2 will be in the casks. Between two vintages we wash them, dry them, wicked them. If you don’t wick a cask a bacterial degradation will follow and you will find a volatile acidity damaging the cask to the point that it’ll become unusable. The wines will become proper vinegar. It’s a must do.
I personnaly think that So2 must be used if you want to transport the wines. I agree with the questioning , for example the work of my friend Marcel Lapierre, a pioneer in natural wine philosophy, it’s something important.
But rather than thinking not to put So2 at all the question is more which levels we are ready to accept. I believe that until 40mg/l of total So2 amount there is no effect for the human body, we don’t feel it. The maximum i will use is 2mg during the vinification process. In biodynamic the maximum is 70mg/l and in conventional 100mg/l.
It’s all about finding techniques to use it the less possible. The So2 you use in the casks at the beginning makes more stable the So2 used later. And you will need to add less. The ideal is to have the best ratio between total So2 and free So2. I reach the ratio of 1 for 2, so if we have 20mg/l free So2 we have 40mg/l total So2. It’s a good ratio. My objective is to make a stable wine.
So2 is a preservative so it’s not ideal for health to use it in big amount. Especially knowing that the ones geenrally used in wines comes from the petrochemistry. We use generally the So2 from quarries but nowadays we are forced to use petrochemical sulfites, natural ones being considered not edible. It’s a nonsense.
It’s a good thing to question the use of So2 but no So2 wines are, in my opinion, more something tending to militantism than a winemaker idea.
It’s all about balance. Again wine is a natural product, if you work well in the field you don’t need acidity or yeast but a low level of So2 helps to keep its stability.
Natural wine is beforehand a concept not really a winegrower idea. But again we should respect everyone vision.
Mas des Chimères- Octon.2017/9/21
Mas des Chimères- Octon.
Guilhem Dardé, the winemaker of Mas des Chimères in Octon is a real figure, not only of his village which he never left, but of all the Languedoc winemakers and farmers world. Activist, he fought among other farmers and winemakers for many years against the installation of an open-cast uranium mine in Boscq, a nearby town, and won.
The Dardé family originally settled in the region to work the land in polyculture: ewes, olive trees and vines.
Several generations succeeded each other until the 1960s when breeding was definitely abandoned in favor of the vines. Guilhem Dardé then began working with his father and his uncle from 1974 onwards.
The grapes were then deposited at the cooperative cellar of the village. However, in 1993, he decided to create a special cellar and to vinify his own wines. His wife Palma joined him in 1996, and their daughter in 2008.
One does not fall by chance on the Mas des Chimères:
The estate is at the end of the Salagou road. It is one of the most original and spectacular landscapes in the department of Hérault. The hills are ancient lava flows, rich in oxidized iron salts. The origin of this rock, called Red Ruffe, dates back to the Permian period, a soil that is more than 250 million years old.
The plots are scattered on the commune of Octon. They are found on different soils (basaltic, clayey-sandy). Their ages range from 90 years to 1 year. The oldest ones are in mass selection. The yields are low: on average 25hl / Ha.
The vineyards are conducted without weed killer, pesticide free, chemical free for many years. Certified in Organic Wine and Organic Agriculture by Ecocert.
The grapes are hand-picked which allows to have the grapes sorted in a perfect sanitary condition. The grape arrives in the cellar, stalked and then put into vats, with all the care and attention, trying to intervene as little as possible.
The winemaking is done with indigenous yeasts and without sulfite. The macerations are more or less long according to the grape variety. The sulphite levels are usually very low but sufficient to stabilize the wine.
The red wines are neither glued nor filtered (filtration for rosé and whites).
Philosophy of the wine maker: working in the vineyard requires constant research to improve and enable the terroir to express itself in wine.
Guide vert La Revue du vin de France 2018:
“I really want to put the light today on this cuvée of the Mas des Chimères, an estate located in the Terrasses du Larzac.This cuvée comes from a variety of cinsault, called Oeillade, a grape variety typical of the Languedoc area. And these are very old vines!
The vintage 2016, is already in bottle, the fruit has been caught. Young, it has already a lot of personality, we can already take with this vintage L’oeillade a lot of pleasure. It’s the impact and originality of the fruit that especially delights me, we have a very direct contact with its expression. In the mouth, a great freshness without angulosity, there is no green, the grape arrived at a perfect ripe.
For me, it is a perfection of what Languedoc can do without trying to copy the other regions. We want to drink this cuvée with summer meals, grills … small picnics at dusk … And this cuvée is sold 9 euros to the estate, that is to say the same price, even cheaper than a lot of pretentious rosé wines. And personally I have 100 times more fun with this cuvée.”
Mas des Chimères
26, rue de la Vialle
Domain Les Maoù- Gordes, Departement of the Vaucluse – Luberon2017/9/19
Domain Les Maoù- Gordes, Departement of the Vaucluse – Luberon
Aurélie and Vincent Garreta
Installed in 2014, they started with 3,5 ha vineyards rented according to the contract of “tenant farmed land” in Gordes, between Luberon and Ventoux. Including old carignans, cinsauts and aubuns, these vines have been grown in organic methods for more than 20 years and are all grassed.
In the cellar the grapes macerate in whole clusters (carbonic maceration or stripped harvest or a combination of both) and the winemakers seek to obtain light and fresh wines that seem to correspond to this corner of vines, relatively cold.
They aim to obtain original and digestible wines and only the yeasts naturally present on grapes lead to fermentation.
Avoiding the use of violent and denaturing processes for wine. In these first two vintages, they only added a maximum of 1.5 g / hl of sulfites one month before bottling.
In 2016 they also started to rent 2ha of old grenache and caladocs on beautiful terraces facing Mont Ventoux.
As a former trained chemist Vincent is passionate about experiencing. He loves surprising wines, as he describes “je n’aime pas m’ennuyer, j’aime les vins fous” (I don’t like to get bored, i love wines with that little twist). Though the research of balance is not far and the wines produced by Aurélie and Vincent are already widely recognized.
Standing on the edge of the plateau of Vaucluse, Gordes (Population : 2.500 h.) is listed as one of the most beautiful village of France.
Its houses of white and gray stone rise up in a spiral around the rock where the village is set. At the very top is the church and the castle which face out onto the hills of the Luberon.
To not around Gordes: the fabulous Abbey of Senanque hidden in the green valley. Cistercian monks still live there producing honey, lavender essence, and liqueurs. The whole twelfth century ediface is open for visits.
38 km. east of Avignon. Take route N100 towards Apt then D2 northeas
Cellar and wine bar Les Buvards, Marseille.2017/9/14
Cellar and wine bar Les Buvards, Marseille.
This wine cellar and wine bar offers a slendid wine list of natural, organic and biodinamic wines in a calm street two steps away from the Old Port.
The atmosphere is warm with many references to natural wine precept and philosophy.
Fred, the young owner was a professional sommelier before to open this charming adress and is also at the kitchen commands
The service is always friendly and offers precise and good advice either you are looking for a bottle to take away or a glass to enjoy with a plate of cheese or charcuterie.
The beautiful cellar has more than 300 references (with natural wines, organic or worked biodynamic) and even champagne at 26 €.
The menu, writen on a black board is simple and emphasis on the products.
The choice goes widely from generous plate of delicatessen, cut finely and divinely perfumed, beef tataki, marinated haddock, lamb with tapenade, fried sardines, yellow zucchini carpaccio with bruccia or its superb andouillette!
With very reasonable prices it makes this charming and quality cellar and table a place to discover!
To note the excellent Côteaux de Tupin from Jean-Michel Stephan winemaker in Côte-Rôtie (non filtered and without SO2 added).
34 Grand Rue, 13002 Marseille
Open everyday from 4pm to 1am, closed on Sunday.
The Vieille Charité and the International center of Poetry- Marseille2017/9/8
The Vieille Charité and the International center of Poetry- Marseille
In accordance with the royal policy of “the great confinement of the poor”, in 1640 the City Council decided to “confine Marseille’s native poor to a clean and specific place.” In 1670, a charity within the Magistrate Council commissioned Pierre Puget, the Marseille-born king’s architect, to build a General Hospital to accommodate beggars and the poor. The first stone was laid in 1671 of what would be one of Pierre Puget’s most beautiful architectural designs.
The hospital was completed in 1749 with four wings of buildings enclosed on the outside and opened by a 3 floor corridor on an internal rectangular courtyard to access the vast communal work and residential spaces separating men and women. The chapel built in the centre of the courtyard between 1679 and 1707 is a stunning architectural piece with an ovoid dome, the epitome of Italian baroque. The current façade wasn’t built until 1863 and echoes the Charité’s mission.
After the Revolution, the Charité became a hospice for the elderly and children until the end of the 19th century. In 1905, the building was occupied by the army and was then used to shelter the most destitute. Abandoned after the Second World War and destined to be demolished, the architect Le Corbusier persevered until it was listed as a Monument Historique in 1951. The renovated Vieille Charité has been a science and culture centre since 1986. It houses the Musée d’Archéologie Méditerranéenne, the Musée des Arts Africains, Océaniens, Amérindiens (M.A.A.O.A), the Centre International de la Poésie de Marseille (C.I.P.M), Le Miroir cinema and temporary exhibition halls.
The exhibition “The Banquet of Marseille in Rome: Pleasures and Games of Powers” aims to show the importance of the symposium and to reconstitute the course of an antique banquet: food and drink consumed, the role attributed to the ” Bankers “, as well as the activities practiced (from the art of rhetoric to erotic games).
If Rome has delivered the famous architecture of the rotating banquet hall, Marseilles (Massalia) is indeed not to be outdone, and there are no less than three banquet halls that have been uncovered in the last fifteen Years in the historic center of the city.
By crossing these discoveries, the exhibition is divided into three parts:
– Massalie banquet rooms
– Banquet tableware
– The Roman banquet and the evocation of the famous machina neronis
The museum’s reserves house a rich and important collection of objects widely exploited in the exhibition and offers the opportunity for the public to appreciate and understand the everyday life of the aristocrats at private banquets, divine banquets with their community obligations, and finally, the imperial Roman banquets in all their excess.
A virtual 3D reconstruction (mapping) evokes the unfolding of an antique banquet. Sounds, music, games and discussions brings to life this educational restitution.
To learn more about the roman Banquet conf. Katarine Raff work “The Roman Banquet”
Open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm,
Closed on Mondays except Easter and Whitsunday, on 1 January, 1 May, 1 November, 25 and 26 December.