Discussing 2018 weather conditions with Jean-Paul Daumen, Domaine de La Vieille Julienne2019/1/31


In 2018 70% of the harvest was lost in one day, on the June 11th. The most impacted areas were the ones surrounding the cellar (Lieu dit Clavin).
Climatic context from May 21st: 17mm of rainfall on May 22nd, 25th, 28th, 9mm on the 30th, 16mm on the 31st, 7mm on the 2nd of June, it wasn’t heavy rainfall but regular with a lot of humidity. On June 10th 40mm, very strong rain, all the organic products protecting the vines were washed away, the vines became unprotected.
This phenomenon didn’t occurred for more than two generations.
On May 12th Mildiou started to appear from early morning, it was incredibly humid.
How the vine will be affected depends of its stage of maturity. The vine is more sensitive during the blooming period. On May 12th more than half of the plots were in full bloom and they were the ones who suffered the most.
At 8am the climate felt tropical, hot and humid, the mushroom started to appear on the flowers. 1/8 grappes were affected, 10am all affected grappes were 100% covered by it, and more were starting to be affected. It was expending very fast. At 2pm 70% of the grappes were damaged.
When you follow organic practices there is nothing to do with a phenomenon of such a scale.
Domaine de la Vieille Julienne vineyards consist of 3 micro-climates: Clavin/ Les 3 Sources/ Les Hauts Lieux. Only Lieu-dit-Clavin plot was at full bloom time and was favorable to the development of the mushroom known as Mildiou. Even on the same plot the maturity is not reached at the same time for all the grapes, therefore effects will be also different. Les Hauts Lieux were the less affected area.
The vines of Lieu-dit-Clavin used to produced IGP Principauté d’Orange 4 ha of Grenache were lost, 70% of the harvest. On the North part of Lieu-dit-Clavin 90% of the harvest were lost.

It’s a real challenge for a winegrower but that’s part of our vocation, adaption to our environment, we work with nature. It opens new questioning on how to improve.
In 2018 we had almost no wind, no Mistral.
Weather forecast are less and less predictable. We might have shorter winters, so think about a possible different timing for pruning or change some grappe varieties more adapted to climate change, more suitable to dry climate.

If the loss was considerable (70%) the quality of the 30% harvested and vinified met the winegrower expectation! 2018 is a year that we look forward to drink!



27655422_1848390242130156_7006591067029976738_n  3-vieille-julienne-gallery-3



Today’s wine: Cotes du Rhône red 2014 Lieu-dit-Clavin -Domaine de la Vieille Julienne2018/3/22


Origin : Southern Rhône Valley, Châteauneuf du Pape
Grape variety: 75% Grenache-10% Cinsault- 5% Syrah- 5% Mourvèdre- 5% divers
SO2: 40mg/l

Viticulture : Organic farming, biodynamic

Harvest : Manually

Vinification: first sorting in the vineyards, second sorting after arriving in the cellar-wild yeast only- no SO2- 20 days in vat- light maceration to respect the grapes

Élevage: one year in oak barrel and 6 months in bottles


Vines years average: 85 years old.

Vineyards: 4 hectares, south exposed terrasses- mix of Miocène formation, Helvétien and alluviums post-wurmiennes-Villafranchienne terrasse covered with pebbles-yellow sands/molasse

Bottling: without fining or filtration. 2mg of SO2 added

Wine Advocate-Parker :89
From vines located around the estate and just over the northern border of Châteauneuf du Pape, the 2014 Côtes du Rhône Lieu Dit Clavin offers lots of ripe red currants, toasted spice, licorice and crushed herbs in a medium-bodied, mouth filling and Provençal character. You can feel the tannin on the mid-palate and finish
To pair with: a splendid apple pie or a pork loin with apricots.


Winemaker comment: “It has good vivacity, ripe grape flavours with freshness,” Jean-Paul Daumen


to eat with: braised rabbit with olives and capers
Service Temperature: 16-18°C
Vol: 13,5% vol
To drink: from now until 2024,
Decant for 2 hours prior to drinking
Bottle Size: 0,75l
Price: ¥2,765

南ローヌから新着 “Daumen(ドーメン)” -new arrival-2017/12/7



Vieille Julienne(ヴィエイユ ジュリアン)のオーナー ジャン・ポール・ドーメンさんのプロジェクト”Daumen(ドーメン)” シャトーヌフデュパプ、コート・デュ・ローヌ、IGPプランシポテ・ドランジュ、ジゴンダスのラインナップ。各ワインはアペレーションでもトップクラスのワインを生み出しています。


The Daumen wines are a side project of Jean-Paul Daumen, the mastermind behind Vieille Julienne. The Vaucluse and Cotes-du-Rhone vineyards have been in the Daumen family as long as the Chateauneuf vineyards. They have also been under biodynamic practice since the early 90’s, with the same level of detail and care as the wines of Vieille Julienne. Both the Lirac and Gigondas come from vineyards that are owned by two former employees of Jean-Paul. Jean-Paul has worked out a deal with them to convert the vineyards to biodynamic viticulture, and they are under JP’s complete control. These wines compete at the highest level for their appellations.








Statement from the winemaker:

“Over the years as I watched the latest generation of young talented vine growers toil their fields. I came up with an idea that would become this current project: I wanted to bottle the fruit of their labor, to capture the spirit of their work, their passion. I knew we shared many things in common, especially the notion of working naturally in the vineyard, so I would simply extend this natural work to my cellar, seeking nothing more than a common expression of our Rhone terroir.

This project is about wine-making, it is about buying grapes from parcels whose soil are rich, vibrant, and alive-an integral part of my philosophy. The project is also about working sustainably.
I source fruit from organically cultivated vineyards, and use recycled materials for all our packaging to better protect our environment.


VJ2 IMG_1865




Jean-Paul Daumen(ジャンポール・ドーメン)


This is a new portfolio of wines for me, wines that are meant to be accessible and authentic. I want them to be real wines, meant to be enjoyed without pretence. They are modest, and straight from the heart.

Finally, this project is about being true to my approach to wine making wine, which is working with the best and healthiest fruit in my cellar. This allows me to simply guide the winemaking process, with the least intervention possible. My work will remain nuanced, avoiding extraction and artifice. My desire is to leave my imprint as an artisan, with the challenge of making wine that expresses purity of fruit, uniqueness of vintage, and a terroir’s personality.
In all sincerity- “ Jean-Paul Daumen


0710Daumen4xoutils3_2 ch du pape 0710Daumen4xoutils3_4 gigondas


Winery pageはこちらから







Visit of the cellar, Domaine de la Vieille Julienne セラー訪問2017/9/25

Jean-Paul Daumen talks about winemaking

– Visit of the cellar- (Japanese/ English)





Visit of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne 3























Visit of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne 4


Visit of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne 5






例えば、“ex 15”は、15番のタンクで熟成されたことを意味します。大切なことは、ボトリングするまでの工程をそれぞれのタンクごとに醸造することです。どのブドウがどのタンクに入っているかの足取りを必ず把握しています。




24312666_1821726141463233_2683006982356976410_n 841256_10202484540023753_1736658985_o






IMG_0703 IMG_0696























2017年6月 ヴィエイユジュリアン訪問





Visit of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne - Jean-Paul Daumen talks about winemaking- Visit of the cellar-1




– Visit of the cellar-

We have a heating system under our tanks to maintain the concrete at the right temperature in order to lower it down as slow as possible at the time of fermentation.
At the beginning of the vinification process we start to air-condition the cellar very freshly to lower down the temperature, during the whole summer we keep it at 18,19°C.
Before to start harvesting we have them dropped at 15°C during one month, concrete temperature dropped at 15°C therefore we start vinications with very cold tanks .
One of the danger faced during the harvest is to have very high temperatures. 2016 was ok but some years we bring back grapes in the cellar with temperatures as 28, 29°C so it is a good thing to put grapes in a colder environment.
Our goal is to not directly intervene on the grapes neither at cold nor hot temperatures. We only intervene on the environment. At the end of the fermentation process we keep a temperature slightly warm to let the temperatures decrease much more slowly. And at first that’s exactly why we keep a cold atmosphere, in order that temperatures rise more reasonably. That’s my way to work rather then doing any intervention directly on the grapes.


The casks

We have only 10 barrels the rest are only casks. Barrels are allowing you to play with volume, we use more as a container rather than a maturing tool. It’s really to mature the volums . It’s more for press wine. We have only traditionnal oak barrels , the smaller are 20 hectoliter and the bigger are 57 hectoliter, the wood is around 50 years old. The indication ex15 means that this wine was aged in the tank number 15. A very important thing is that we work until bottling seprately on each vinification tank. I always have in mind which grapes were in the tank it helps me keeping track until the bottle . Cleaning the large casks is a very peculiar experience, you have to enter entirely inside, but you don’t smell alcohol as you can do in a vinification tank. The shape of the cask , the air circulation inside is such that you feel quite confortable, even for someone as me you is not a big fan of confine, small spaces. The atmosphere inside is very soft, enveloping. It’s cleaned with a brush every year. We spray first hot water and let the vapor dilate a bit the wood pores.
Les Trois Sources:
It is a cuvée blending. There are two parts, one is more early . It’s two casks blended during the bottling. 2016 bottling was end of february 2017. After the bottling we wait 4 months before to put them on the market.
For each vintage we keep 300/400 bottles. 2013 and 2014 were two difficult years and it was not easy to keep that number.


What’s important ?
To have a good fruit, a good grape, balance, containing the right quantity of sugar, acidity, natural yeast. It’s one of the rare transformed product which stay stable. The work is first in the vineyard.


Which type of glass would you recommend for your wines ?
Glasses of Saint Gobin. (the same craftman who made the Louvres pyramid).
For tasting we use Riddle glasses.


We have a board to keep updates visually, precisely and quickly of harvest and vinification periods. There is a balance. We need exactitude, we need to quickly decide that it’s this moment and not an other. And at the same time comes into play more senses, creativity, artistique side, experience, some poetry.
Overall you need technique. Some winemakers are real artist they make really aerial wines. I personnaly prefers tellurian wines, rooted. It’s a balance though to find between the two. We are in a perpetual research of balance.



The first contact of the wine with So2 will be in the casks. Between two vintages we wash them, dry them, wicked them. If you don’t wick a cask a bacterial degradation will follow and you will find a volatile acidity damaging the cask to the point that it’ll become unusable. The wines will become proper vinegar. It’s a must do.
I personnaly think that So2 must be used if you want to transport the wines. I agree with the questioning , for example the work of my friend Marcel Lapierre, a pioneer in natural wine philosophy, it’s something important.
But rather than thinking not to put So2 at all the question is more which levels we are ready to accept. I believe that until 40mg/l of total So2 amount there is no effect for the human body, we don’t feel it. The maximum i will use is 2mg during the vinification process. In biodynamic the maximum is 70mg/l and in conventional 100mg/l.
It’s all about finding techniques to use it the less possible. The So2 you use in the casks at the beginning makes more stable the So2 used later. And you will need to add less. The ideal is to have the best ratio between total So2 and free So2. I reach the ratio of 1 for 2, so if we have 20mg/l free So2 we have 40mg/l total So2. It’s a good ratio. My objective is to make a stable wine.
So2 is a preservative so it’s not ideal for health to use it in big amount. Especially knowing that the ones geenrally used in wines comes from the petrochemistry. We use generally the So2 from quarries but nowadays we are forced to use petrochemical sulfites, natural ones being considered not edible. It’s a nonsense.

It’s a good thing to question the use of So2 but no So2 wines are, in my opinion, more something tending to militantism than a winemaker idea.
It’s all about balance. Again wine is a natural product, if you work well in the field you don’t need acidity or yeast but a low level of So2 helps to keep its stability.
Natural wine is beforehand a concept not really a winegrower idea. But again we should respect everyone vision. Visit of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne - Jean-Paul Daumen talks about winemaking- Visit of the cellar-2 Visit of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne 6 Visit of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne 7 Visit of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne 8


Rhône ローヌ地方2017/6/2


new_pic (93)














Page Top